How To Change High Side Schrader Valve

Big T · Aug thirteen, 2010

How do you remove this:

When I removed the plastic cap, it dumps the refrigerant. I'm told it's just a dust cap and the valve is not supposed to leak like that. Explains all my issues with the Ac system. I put a wrench to it, merely can't break it costless. The base of operations looks similar it's casted in place. Does it split at the nut?

robzombie4551 · Aug 13, 2010

What I would do is try tightening it. yous should hear it make a noise every bit it breaks the bail. then you volition be able to loosen with no trouble.

THEFERMANATOR

Put a wrench on the very botom end, and utilise a pair of channel locks at the very height and information technology will come out.

Big T

Put a wrench on the very botom end, and apply a pair of channel locks at the very top and it will come out.

So it splits at the nut? Lesser is permanently affixed to the hose assembly? What causes information technology to stick so tightly?

Later destroying my evaporator, I was reluctant to go afterwards this.

THEFERMANATOR

The valve comes apart right at the red line.

jmiller

When mine was leaking, just replaced the whole line.

Information technology didn't look like is was servicable. Who knew.

Steve93mustanglx

SHo nuff- THEFERMANATOR is correct. I merely replaced mine about 6 weeks ago. Bought part at Napa for roughly six bucks. Don't put the new plastic cap on it likewise tight- it will break. Inquire me how I know... information technology is a grit embrace merely!

THEFERMANATOR

When mine was leaking, merely replaced the whole line.

It didn't look like is was servicable. Who knew.

I did this on the first one i did and a friend of mine at the dealer laughed and showed me how to service em.

Missy Good Wench

Yup, been at that place done that.

Right at the ruby line.

These connectors don't have the same schrader valve that the former R12 systems used.
These are a little plastic or ??? cheque ball.

The seat either gets muddied or damaged ????? and then leaks.

Some fourth dimension you can poke the ball with a suitable BLUNT instrument and get them to stop leaking, otherwise information technology's blow the organization downwards, replace the valve and recharge.

Missy

Big T

Thanks All. It was exactly as Theferminator and WarWagon (via electronic mail) said. Splits at the cherry line. Grabbed to a higher place it with some vice grips and it removed easily. The flange in a higher place the red line has some nut facings which I used to torque in the new own. New valve was less than $half-dozen at NAPA. 4.v more than cans of R134a and information technology'southward blowing absurd. Also defenseless a slight leak at the compressor switch on the dryer. The switch just needed to be torqued downward. Hopefully, I'm washed with this for awhile. Been a learning curve, but with the assistance on this hither board, I made information technology down.

Steve93mustanglx

This lath is fantastic. Very very helpful with every problem I accept had. Hope your a/c is done for a while!

Acesneights1

There is a special socket for removing that. Almost 9x out of 10 if yous f with that fitting it volition leak so replacing it is nearly a given when servicing a GM system.. It is deceiving how the nut looks. I call back everyone who does A/C work has probably mauled one the 1st fourth dimension around thinking information technology comes apart between the nuts..

THEFERMANATOR

There is a special socket for removing that. Almost 9x out of x if y'all f with that fitting information technology will leak so replacing it is almost a given when servicing a GM organization.. Information technology is deceiving how the nut looks. I think everyone who does A/C work has probably mauled one the 1st time around thinking it comes autonomously betwixt the nuts..

Don't forget that quite a few FORDS used it as well.

Big T

At that place is a special socket for removing that. Nigh 9x out of x if yous f with that fitting it will leak and so replacing information technology is almost a given when servicing a GM system.. It is deceiving how the nut looks. I think anybody who does A/C work has probably mauled 1 the 1st time around thinking it comes autonomously between the nuts..

Aye, NAPA's manuals had information technology listed as OEM for both GM and Ford.

Unfortunately, after charging the Ac system, it leaked down over again. The hose from the compressor to the dryer was moisture with oil at the aluminum crimp over the rubber. This showed up under the UV low-cal and was moisture to impact. At this bespeak I need to take it in to a shop with an electronic leak sniffer equally I cannot find a identify to rent one. Tired of charging up the system just to take it leak down. It's like I find the leak and then charge it upwards and the next weakest link in the system blows.:???:

Oh well, it has been the coolest summer in 77 years in SoCal, so it hasn't been then bad.

Steve93mustanglx

Yes, NAPA's manuals had it listed as OEM for both GM and Ford.

It'southward like I observe the leak and and so accuse it up and the next weakest link in the arrangement blows.:???:

Oh well, it has been the coolest summer in 77 years in SoCal, so it hasn't been so bad.

i- granted its 15 years onetime like mine, simply the more than I work on my Suburban the more articulate GM's bankruptcy becomes.

ii- don't tell that to the lame stream media, according to them the hot summertime we are having in the eastern 1/2 of the lower 48 is certified proof the earth is ending due to our tailpipes.

back on topic, I totally experience your hurting. Went through three recharges before I finally got mine right. (I say that with both fingers crossed).

WarWagon

And I thought I had a bad year for AC...

Hoses, leak at compressor, leaky compressor, condenser times two, compressor clutch scattered on reman compressor, fan clutch times 2, better fan times 2, burned off blower motor wires, bad motor, hole in blower box from bad squirrel cage, resistor pack, bad defrost mode motor and jammed defroster door.

But wait the summertime isn't over!

TMHark

Petty green bubbles on base of this valve

My 97 needs a recharge every yr (so works fine) and now is needing a can added every calendar month or so

This valve seem to be the culprit

I modded this picture to evidence what is happening

Time to supercede whole line? Anybody ever "peen" a leak airtight in this surface area and have it hold?
AC Valve.jpg

Big T

My 97 needs a recharge every twelvemonth (and then works fine) and now is needing a tin added every month or so

This valve seem to exist the culprit

I modded this pic to bear witness what is happening

Time to replace whole line? Anybody ever "peen" a leak airtight in this expanse and have information technology hold?
View attachment 21167

Replace that valve. It's less than $half-dozen at NAPA.

Big T

Supplant that valve. Information technology's less than $6 at NAPA.

After the last leak down, I constitute oil at the point where the rubber hose is crimped into the aluminum backside the compressor. It showed up under the UV lite and it was wet to touch: